Scotland

If you fully want to appreciate Scotland (and you do), you need to carry a sense of the mystical within you. This might sound like a left-handed compliment for Scotland, but it’s not. When it comes to this rugged, northern edge of the United Kingdom, the more knowledge about the history and culture that you bring to your travel experience the more the land opens and shares its own stories.

To be bewitched by Scotland, think more Outlander and less Rick Steves. Scotland is a land rich in oral tradition, poetry, and music, and while guidebooks are helpful with the logistics of a trip (hence me writing this blog post), you’ll want to balance the practical with equal parts lore and legend. Diana Gabaldon, author of the Outlander book series (later made into a TV series), has brought that magic and history to millions of readers who may have previously never given Scotland a second thought. In fact, so much so that since she shared Outlander with the world, tourism there has increased by almost 50%.

If it wasn’t Outlander that piqued your interest in Scotland, it was probably scotch or golf. And while I can’t personally speak to golf, both interests would be well rewarded by a visit. Scotland is, afterall, the birthplace of the sport and swinging a club at St. Andrews is a right of passage for many who love the game.

As far as the scotch… have I got a treat to share with you! There’s no better drink to warm a soul from the chill and damp of the Highlands than a sip of Lagavulin and that sniff of peet. Grab your book of Burns poetry, pour a dram, cue the bagpipes, and start dreaming (and planning) your trip to one of the most “hauntingly beautiful,” to quote J.K. Rowling, edges of the world.

**There is gloom, but it’s incredible when the clouds part!**

Location: Despite its best efforts, Scotland is not an independent country. It makes up the northern region of the United Kingdom (which also includes England, Wales and Northern Ireland).

Best time to visit: Nobody goes to Scotland for the weather. Don’t expect to find a season with a stretch of gorgeous, sunny, warm days. But do expect that at some point during your trip (and potentially multiple times during your trip) that the clouds will break and you will get the most beautiful sun beams piercing the fog and spotlighting the rolling green hills and craggy cliffs below. These are the moments when you’ll believe that fairies actually do exist.

Summer brings the most tourists (and the Highland Festivals), but for lower costs and less people aim for the shoulder seasons of spring (late March - May) or fall (September - early October). If you’re traveling in that window, plan for temps ranging in the 50s/60s and bring layers, including a water-proof layer.

**My hubby started a new tradition: swig of scotch when you’ve reached the peak of your hike!**

Trip duration: How far do you want to go?! We packed in a loop of over 600 miles in seven days, starting and ending in Edinburgh. Honestly, that’s probably too much for most people. I would suggest narrowing your visit to one area, OR spreading out our itinerary over at least nine to ten days.

Our itinerary:

Day 1: Arrived in Edinburgh (if early, explore the city/ if late stay in a hotel near the airport)

Day 2: Drove to Glencoe

Day 3: Drove to Isle of Skye/Explore

Day 4: Explored Isle of Skye

Day 5: Drove to Braemar (via Inverness - very long day!)

Day 6: Drove to Edinburgh/Explored city

Day 7: Flew home

**One of the many beautiful views along the drive!**

Who to bring: We did this as an Anniversary trip and I’m honestly glad that we didn’t bring the kids. If scotch, golf or Outlander brought you to this part of the world, all three are better enjoyed without kids in tow.

Getting there: The two major airports are just outside Edinburgh and Glasgow. Glasgow seems to have better prices from the United States and gets you closer to the Highlands, but Edinburgh has more charm and history and gets you closer to St. Andrews. The two are 45 minutes from each other, so just book the cheapest flight if you can’t decide.

Getting around: This is where you need to muster the courage of a kilt-wearing ax throwing highlander. If you’re from the United States, you’ll be driving on the left with the steering wheel on the right, on two-lane roads that are smaller than our one-lane roads. Watch out for sheep and, unless you specifically requested otherwise, you’ll probably be driving a stick shift. I highly recommend paying extra for an automatic! We rented from Hertz because we frequently use them in the United States.

Yes, there are probably tourist buses that will cart you around and even Outlander themed-tours to help you hit the hot spots. Google that. It’s not our thing.

**Average road size on Isle of Skye (and much of rural Scotland). Mind you, this is a two-lane road. Sheep butt to the right for scale (ha ha!).**

Accommodations:

Quaint little B&Bs are a HUGE part of the culture in this corner of the world. Pick your city, search Airbnb or use Google Maps to quickly check accommodations and their ratings. I’ll include where we stayed with each location description.

Regions of Scotland to explore…

Glencoe

The drive from Edinburgh to Glencoe is a destination in itself. Your mouth will hang agape and you’ll shout “pull over” so many times that you should plan to build in an extra hour to take photos.

**On route A82, near the Three Sisters Viewpoint**

Accommodations:

We stayed in Creag Mohr Lodge, which is a charming B&B overlooking Loch Linnhe with an impressive scotch collection and charming living room area. If you are looking to splurge, check out Inverlochy Castle Hotel.

Dining:

The Holly Tree Inn is known for its views and its seafood. Nothing “wow,” but pleasant. Next time we will check out Lochleven Seafood Cafe (Michelin) or The Laroch Restaurant & Bar. Book months in advance!

**Creag Mohr Lodge - they have an impressive selection of scotch!**

Highlights

Gorgeous scenery:

Drive route A 82 for scenes of the Three Sisters Viewpoint, Buachaille Etive Mor, and just stunning views almost the whole way. Definitely a highlight!

Some potential stops along the way from Edinburgh:

Midhope Castle (aka Lollybroch): This is an Outlander stop, so if you’re not a fan, keep trekking. If you are a fan, check to make sure it’s open to the public because it is still a working farm.
Blackness Castle
Culross
Sterling Castle: historical castle to tour
Doune Castle: Home of Clan Mackenzie (Outlander) and where many scenes were filmed in Monty Python and the Holy Grail

**Doune Castle - Mrs. Fitz’s Kitchen in Outlander and a few different scenes in Monty Python**

Stops from Glencoe to Isle of Skye:

Jacobite Train: if you’re a Harry Potter fan, then you’ll know the majestic scene of the Hogwarts Express traveling through rolling, green hills every September 1st. We thought about taking the train, but we were short on time. And, if you’re ON the train, you don’t really get to SEE the train.

**We heard from someone else that a cluster of tourists with cameras stake out the signature spot with the infamous bridge hours in advance and, well, it sort of takes the magic out of the moment.

**Stock photo of the Jacobite Train - we decided to skip this**

Fort William: You can take a historical tour here.
Eileen Dohan Castle: Yes, the current owners are probably making a mint on tourism, but it is a magical castle and worth a brief stop and a few photos.
Silgachan Old Bridge: brief, photo spot on the Isle of Skye

**Roadster outside of Eileen Dohan Castle (apparently renting these, or bringing your own, is a thing round these parts).**

Isle of Skye

The secret is out on the Isle of Skye. Quaint fishing towns, Highland cows, and some of THE most incredible hiking has grown this region to become one of the most desired travel destinations in Scotland. Book your accommodations at least three months out, and book your dining reservations at least a month ahead.

Isle of Skye Accommodations:

Most travelers aim to stay in the town of Portree, a charming fishing village with delightful pubs and restaurants and a good hub for hiking in the north or the distilleries to the west.

We stayed at Canowindra, a B & B just out of town, and had a lovely experience. The city center is incredibly charming, so if you prefer a hotel check out The Portree Hotel or The Caledonian Hotel, both located in the main town square.

**Canowindra - I highly recommend this Airbnb! Great service and wonderful breakfast!**

Highlights:

Hiking:

* Old Man Storr: if you have flexibility, plan this for the day with the best weather because it is absolutely breathtaking when the sun peaks out.

*Quiring Walk: I’m kicking myself for not doing this, but we had a limited amount of time. I’ve heard that it's absolutely stunning (but so is Old Man Storr, so plan for both).

Fairy Tales:

*Fairy Glen: this area is near the two aforementioned hikes, so add some extra time and make this stop. It’s a short walk and well worth it. There’s just something about natural earthen mounds to give you a strong sense of the otherworldly.

*The Fairy Pools: I’m guessing these are most magical in the summer when you can dip your toes in the water and your odds of sunshine improve, but I also know that anything crowded with tourists becomes instantly less magical. Yes, it’s beautiful and fun to explore, but if you’re limited on time then I suggest you skip it.

Scotch:

If you’ve come for the scotch, then you’re heading to Talisker. The showroom is modern, the tasting room is small, and the selection is impressive.

Restaurants:

Yes, this is a foodie destination! This tiny little isle boasts a few Michelin rated restaurants! Book at least a month ahead.

Dining In Portree:

Dulce and Brose
Scorrybreac Restaurant (Michelin)
Restaurant Rosedale

Dining on the Isle:

Edinbane Inn (Michelin)
Edinbane Lodge Restaurant (Michelin)
The Three Chimneys and The House Over-by
Loch Bay Restaurant (Michelin)
Munros Bar

Loch Ness/Inverness

We drove alongside Loch Ness and that was enough for us. Again, in an effort to avoid the over-commercialized, it just wasn’t our thing. There is a visitor center and a few local shops where you can pick up kitchy Loch Ness Monster t-shirts and stuffies for the kids.

Inverness is a charming town. The main street is a great place to snag some woolen goods, a bite to eat, and tip the street performer puffing his cheeks out on the bagpipe.

Culloden Battlefield

If Outlander inspired you to come, then I don’t need to explain. For everyone else, this is where the clans of Scotland fought for their independence (and lost terribly) to the British. In other words, it was the beginning of the end for highlander clan life.

**Clan Fraser, mixed in among the other stones memorializing family clans**

Braemor

Truth be told, I was drawn to this area because of photos I’d seen of the stunning and wildly unique Fife Arms Hotel. I later found out that Balmoral Castle, home of the Queen (and now King Charles III) is just up the street. Queen Elizabeth II had died a few days before our visit, so the gates were covered with memorial flowers, letters and other tokens of respect. If touring the castle or grounds is high on your list, plan a visit between April and August when tickets are offered to the public.

**We were there a few days after Queen Elizabeth II died at this castle.**

The Fife Arms was a splurge for us (hence the one-night stay), but the cost was worth the memories - and perhaps Bertie’s Bar alone! This is the place I teased about in the intro. The collection of scotch is THE MOST amazing I’ve seen, the decor is exactly what it should be: glowing bottles, velvet chairs by a fire, quality but not snooty. It is essentially a “library” of scotches and the scotch expert has a story to share about each one.

Beyond the art that covers every wall and the incredible Robert Burns-inspired chimney piece, what I love most about this hotel is that its sophisticated and thoughtful decor is paired with relaxed, welcoming and genuine service.

**Bertie’s Bar is a must-do for Scotch lovers!**

**Robert Burns-inspired chimney piece in The Fife Arms.**

Edinburgh

Edinburgh is just charming. I’m not an expert as our time here was brief, but you definitely need to walk the streets in the old town and pop in and out of pubs and quaint shops. It’s said that J.K. Rowling, author of the Harry Potter series, based her fictional Diagon Alley off of Ediburgh’s Victoria Street. And even if you’re not a “Potter-head,” you should definitely give it a stroll. If you ARE an HP fan, then check out THIS blog post (not mine) for a guide to Edinburgh.

The Royal Mile is the famous street in the Old Town that connects Edinburgh Castle with the Palace of Holyrood House. Grab some woolen goods, a dram to warm you, and soak in the medieval architecture while detouring down side streets. When we return (and we will), I’ll write up a more detailed post about Edinburgh.

We have the fondest memories of our time in Scotland. I’m finishing up this post with a wee dram of scotch, and feeling nostalgic about those highland views, cozy pubs, and stunning hikes. I wish I could go back in time and do it all over again!

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