Belize

We were seeking a little adventure on this trip and Belize totally came through! From nighttime jungle treks, to an epic cave tour (complete with skeletons!), iguana feedings, swimming with sharks and rays, and snorkeling the second largest barrier reef in the world, we found exactly the level of “perceived danger” (note: different from actual danger) that two young boys - and their brave mothers - were looking for.

This was a “buddy trip” for us. The boys, ages 10 and 11, saved up and paid for their flights and a couple expensive excursions, while the adults covered their own flights, their excursion fees, food for their families and split the accommodation costs. It’s a great way to keep travel costs low, and get kids super invested in their travel experience - among numerous other benefits that will require another blog post!

**So proud of these two boys for working hard to save up money for this trip!**

Belize is a great first trip out of the country, especially if you find international travel a bit intimidating.

English is the main spoken language (a former British colony). Additionally, many people speak Creole and Spanish.
The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. The exchange rate is $1 U.S. = $2 B.Z. dollars and you can pay with all U.S. dollars, all Belize dollars, or a mix of both.
It’s safe. At no time did we feel concerned for our safety, or experience any theft.

***Important to note: If you are traveling alone with your child (meaning, the child’s other parent is not with you) you will need to have a notarized permission slip with the non-traveling parent’s signature. They did ask us for it when entering the country.

Location: Belize is located in Central America, just south of Mexico and east of Guatemala.

Best time to visit: The dry season is January to May, which also coincides largely with their “high season” of travel (starts in December). We visited in January and did have a few heavy rain bursts in the jungle one day, but otherwise we experienced sunny days that ranged from the high 70s to the low 80s.

Because of its latitude, Belize never gets too cold and the average water temp hovers around 80 degrees year-round, making it very pleasant for snorkeling and scuba diving.

**Mom and son swimming with sharks at Shark Ray Alley!**

Trip duration: We spent a week, which gave us three nights in the jungle and three nights in Caye Caulker (a small island) and about a day of travel home. You could do less if you were choosing one area (just island or just jungle), or spend longer to island hop or visit ruins that are more spread out. Ideally, for a family trip, I’d recommend 7-10 days. Many retirees come for a month!

Getting there: Atlanta and Charlotte are big hubs for traveling to Central America if you live in the United States. We had a forced overnight in Atlanta on the way there, which worked out well to arrive in Belize around noon.

***It’s recommended not to hang out in Belize City long (more crime in that area), so it’s good to arrive with enough time pick up your rental car (or hop in your pre-arranged shuttle) if you’re heading to the jungle first.

**Flight from Caye Caulker to Belize City - 9 seater airplane!**

Getting around: To keep things simple and stress-free, we arranged for a driver and van to pick us up from the airport and take us directly to our jungle lodge, Table Rock. Table Rock handled all of that for us and we paid for the 2 hr. ride ($150 U.S. for up to four people) directly through the hotel. We paid the same amount for our return trip (but were dropped off at the ferry, instead of the hotel).

renting a car: after viewing the roads in Belize, I actually wouldn’t hesitate to rent a car if I wanted to do more independent exploring. I’ve heard that the local agency, Crystal Auto Rental, is reliable. One couple that we met had their car stall a few times, and Crystal drove out to meet them and swapped it with a newer car. If you’re visiting an island, you won’t want to mess with a car. Most of the island are small and are golf-cart only.
local shuttle: we took a local van service into the town of San Ignacio from our jungle lodge. Our hotel called him to pick us up and we called the hotel when we wanted them to arrange a ride back. It was about $7 BZ ($3.50 U.S.) per person, per way, and he would pick up other local riders on his way. Great option!

**Table Rock Lodge helped us arrange transportation directly from the airport to the lodge. Our driver’s “co-pilot” was sharing his knowledge of Belize wildlife with my 10 year-old.**

THE JUNGLE - San Ignacio

We based the jungle portion of our stay out of the town of San Ignacio. It’s about a two-hour drive west from the International airport in Belize City and there are numerous jungle lodges to choose from in that region.

Accommodation: We were delighted with our stay at the Table Rock Lodge. The remote lodge sits on 175 preserved acres, contains a salt-water infinity pool, frontage on the Macal river, an organic farm and numerous hiking trails.

We ate most of our meals at the lodge for convenience, but the service and food were top-notch so that made it a no-brainer.

**We stayed in the “River Valley View” cabana, which offered a king-size bed, fold out futon, and a balcony with a jungle view.**

**The lodge gives you a flashlight to use during your stay, so that you can find your way back to your cabin at night.**

Activities:

Mayan Ruins - located just outside of downtown San Ignacio is the Cahal Pech Mayan ruins. This pre-classic settlement dates back to the early pre-classic era (1300-1000 BC) and contains about 34 structures on 22 acres. It was just enough ruins for our two young kids to climb and explore without loosing interest. If archaeology is your thing, you can arrange a guided tour to the Tikal ruins in neighboring Guatemala.

San Ignacio Market - the market is open seven days a week, with the busiest day being Saturday. Stroll the stalls, grab a pupusa from the Pupuseria, and pick up a few souvenirs along the way.

**traveler tip - Belize doesn’t have a huge “haggling” culture, but it is acceptable to negotiate 10-15% off at the market for souvenirs, especially if you’re buying more than one item from the same vendor. It never hurts to try!

**Shopping for souvenirs at the market in San Ignacio**

**Pupusas originated in El Salvador, and are similar to a quesadilla (but with thicker dough).**

Green Iguana Conservation Project - this is located in The San Ignacio Hotel and takes about an hour. In addition to learning about the iguanas, we were also able to feed and pet them, and even hold the juveniles. Our boys loved it!

**This is a male iguana. His protruding cheeks store fat that can be used to keep him alive up to a month without food.**

ATM Cave Tour - This was my absolute FAVORITE thing we did in Belize!! We arranged the tour through our hotel for about $140 per person. This included transportation (1 hr. from Table Rock), lunch, water, and the guided tour. You are not allowed to take your phone or a camera into the cave due to past tourists getting distracted and accidentally destroying some of the Mayan artifacts.

If you are claustrophobic, or not super comfortable in the water (sometimes the water will be over your head), then this is NOT the activity for you. I don’t want to give too much away, but at one point our whole group was humming the theme song to Indiana Jones as we scaled large boulders and squeezed through narrow crevices.

The Lodge set up our tour for us with Jam Jam, but we learned that he does have his own website, and he was phenomenal!

You will need: Keens (or other closed-toe water shoes), a dry pair of socks (to give to your guide for later use), a bathing suit with a shirt and shorts (or quick-dry pants) to cover it.

You will be given: a water bottle for the 40 minute trek to the cave, and a hard hat with a head lamp. Medication can be given to your guide to hold in his dry bag.

**We didn’t know what we were in for at this point. Our smiles were even bigger at the end!**

Night Hike - Our hotel offered this for about $25 U.S. per person. We “fished” for tarantulas, caught tree frogs, and learned a lot about the local flora and fauna. The guide has spotted boa constrictors, anteaters and other jungle mammals, but there’s no guarantees with nature!

**Our guide pointing out cohune nuts (used to make a local cooking oil) during our night hike.**

The Ocean - Caye Caulker

Whenever I plan a trip, I save the beach/ocean segment for last. You always want to end your trip with a little R&R to keep the mood upbeat and return feeling like you vacationed (as well as traveled).

Belize has around 450 islands, called Cayes (pronounced ‘keys’), so how does one choose?! The two most visited are Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. Ambergris is larger, more built up with restaurants and hotels, and is said to have a more active party scene. We chose Caye Caulker because it was smaller, more laid back (“Go Slow” is the motto), and would be easy for two young children to navigate and explore. The island suited our situation perfectly.

**These two kiddos quickly knew their way around the island.**

Things to Know about Caye Caulker:

Getting there:
- Ferry/Water Taxi (San Pedro Express is about $21 pp U.S. one way, and takes about 45 minutes)
- Mayan Island Air or Tropic Air (15 minute flight from start to finish costs us about $180 pp).
The flight is more expensive, but much shorter and returns you to exactly where you need to be. Whereas, if you’re headed home after the ferry ride, you still have to pay a taxi for the 45 minute drive back to the airport.
Read more about these options here.

**We took the ferry to the island and decided to fly on the way back (the five minute flight helped us skip the 45 minute ferry + a 45 minute Uber back to the airport).**

No cars allowed: There are no motorized vehicles on the island (except for maintenance, emergency, or construction), so a golf cart or bike is the main mode of transportation. You can grab a golf cart “taxi” once you arrive to get you and your baggage to your accommodation.

It’s tiny! The whole island is about 1/2 mile wide by 5 miles long, and the main tourist area is even smaller, so you can get to anything you need on foot.
Two islands to choose from: The island was divided into two via Hurricane Hattie in 1961, which created the popular hang out area known as “The Split.” The northern segment of the island is less developed (although construction is definitely in process), but does contain a couple of popular resorts. The southern island is where the majority of restaurants, shops and tour stands (for excursions) are located.

South Island to North Island: You can hop on a tiny raft, for a minimal fee, to get to from the South Island to the north island. Just head to The Split to find the ferry, which operates when needed.

Beach life: Neither of the Cayes are known for their beaches. The barrier reefs create a coastline that has an abundance of seagrass and mangrove. If you want to be able to wade into the water and swim, then I suggest heading to the Palencia Peninsula of Belize. You will however have AMAZING access to some incredible snorkeling and diving from Caye Caulker!
Money stuff: There are many ATMs located on the island, and some vendors only take cash (although most take credit card). Belize dollars and US dollars are accepted everywhere, and you can even pay in half Belize and half U.S. dollars.
Groceries: There are many “corner stores” on the island that carry the basics. You can find non-dairy milk, lots of canned food/dry goods items, but, oddly, only a small section of produce.
“Go-Slow” It’s the motto of the island and means “Chill out and relax” or, in other words, “It may take a ridiculous amount of time for your food to come.” Budget WAY longer for meals out than you would in the United States. And expect to ask for the bill when you’re finished (they won’t just bring it).

**The street food is good, but don’t expect it to be fast!**

Accommodations

Caye Reef Condos - Where we stayed! I found this place through Airbnb. It’s in a great location, has a pool and rooftop hot tub, a beach area across the street, and is walkable to everything.

**The pool at Caye Reef where we stayed.**

Weezies Ocean Front Hotel and Garden Cottages - I biked past this place and it looked lovely. It’s on the southern end of the southern island, so a little quieter, but still within walking distance of everything.

Colinda Cananas - near Weezies on the southern end of the island. Gets great reviews and books up fast!

Blue Zen Caye Caulker - this hotel is on the Northern Island, so it’s great if you’re seeking a more remote/quiet location, but you will probably be making frequent use of the ferry to the southern island to mix up your dining options.

**Strolling on the southern island (where we stayed).**

Must-do Activities on Caye Caulker

Iguana Reef Inn: Sting Rays - this hotel allows non-guests to visit its beach and take part in the 4 pm sting ray feeding. Our boys were delighted with this up and close experience. There are also sea horses near the dock. The drinks are pricy, but the hang out space has a relaxed resort vibe and we preferred it to The Split.

**I didn’t know sting rays could be so friendly!**

The Split - You can’t come to Caye Caulker and not check out The Split! It’s where the island was “split” in two during the 1961 hurricane and it’s one of the few swimming areas on the island. Many people grab a book and read on the deck or grab a drink and enjoy the scene. It’s also where you can hop aboard a tiny “ferry” (think “raft”) to the northern portion of the island.

The Split is one of the few places where you can swim on Caye Caulker. There’s also this intense diving platform that the kids absolutely loved (well…after they got the courage to take that first jump).

Hol Chan Reserve and Shark Ray Alley - this was definitely a highlight for us and an absolute must-do! We felt 100% safe while swimming with the nurse sharks and sting rays, and we saw such an incredible abundance of wildlife while swimming at Hol Chan. Because it’s a reserve, a guide must accompany you in the water at the barrier reef, and we benefited greatly from his keen eye for wildlife and knowledge of the flora and fauna.

We booked a private trip through Captain Ron Adventures and divided the day between snorkeling and deep sea fishing. He did a wonderful job of following our interests and throwing in a few special, local experiences.

A more budget-friendly option is a group tour through Caveman Snorkeling Tours or Ragamuffin Tours.

Deep Sea Fishing - this was our boys’ pick, but turns out that Belize is known for this sport! Many come for their shot at Wahoo, Blue Marlin, Grouper or Barracuda. We didn’t catch anything of that size (we only did a couple hours of fishing) but we were able to reel in quite a few Bonita, a Yellow Jack and a Red Snapper! Captain Ron Adventures was great with the kids and super flexible with creating a trip that fit our interests.

Tarpon Feeding - if your crew likes animals, then this is another way to encounter some ocean creatures. You basically hold a fish in your hand and a huge, four foot tarpon will jump above the surface of the water to grab them. Keep your hand flat or they may grab more than the fish! We did this from a boat when returning from fishing, but there is a dock and for $5 BZ you can get a container of sardines to feed them. It’s at the end of Calle La Posa st.

Restaurants

Breakfast:

The Magic Cup: small space for seating inside, but a good place to grab a coffee or food to go.
Ice and Beans Cafe: vegan-friendly options, along with a pretty substantial menu in general. The waterfront seating area is the perfect setting for taking in the sunrise and enjoying your morning meal.

**Enjoying my smoothie bowl at Ice and Beans Cafe.**

Dinner:

Reina’s: Our favorite place! Reina’s is a great mix of casual seating with delicious food and reasonably priced drinks. Get there right at 5:30 pm if you want to be guaranteed a table. By 6 pm the place will be full and people will be lining up.

Where we would have gone if we had more time…

Wish Willy’s Bar & Grill: Literally a guy grilling in his backyard with picnic tables and drinks you grab from a cooler. We heard that Willy definitely knows what he’s doing when it comes to the grill.
Maggie’s Sunset Kitchen: recommended by our charter fishing guide for delicious food at affordable prices.
Pasto per Caso: the owners cook two pasta dishes from scratch per night. This place has a big following, so plan to get there early!

If you’re looking for a warm-weather trip that incorporates adventure, culture, ocean and jungle, Belize is an absolute gem. The food/accommodation prices are comparable to the U.S. (so no deals there), but the stories you can tell will be worth it. I mean, ‘fishing” for tarantulas and swimming with sharks…that’s WAY more interesting than a condo in Orlando!

Sedona, Arizona