Japan: Tokyo, Kyoto & Osaka

The “Land of the Rising Sun,” once a very insular country, is definitely experiencing a boom in tourism. Whether your first connection to the country was Nintendo, Pokemon, anime, karaoke, sushi or my personal favorite, ramen, chances are that the country’s culture has reached across oceans to a store or restaurant near you.

Visitors to Japan usually return in awe of the cleanliness and safety of the country. The streets are pristine, the trains are on time and passengers are quiet and respectful. When in Tokyo, a city of almost 14 million people, I only saw one homeless person during the four days that we spent there.

So how does Japan function so smoothly and efficiently? Rules. A lot of them. Most of these rules are in the form of unspoken social norms that the collective culture embraces, and socially aware tourists pick up on quickly.

If you’d like a heads up before you visit, check out this list: 15 Unspoken Rules When Visiting Japan

**During "sakura," many Japanese take photos in traditional dress with the cherry blossoms.**

Location: Japan is a series of islands (4 major ones and hundreds of inhabited smaller ones) located in the Pacific Ocean, just off the coast of the Asian continent. South Korea is the country’s closest neighbor.

Best time to visit: We wanted to time our trip with the infamous cherry blossom season, known as “sakura,” which comes at the end of March/beginning of April. The periods of March to May and September to November are the dry seasons, and a great time to visit. The summer months are very hot with frequent rainfall.

**If you’re visiting at the end of April/beginning of May, look up the dates for “Golden Week,” which is Japan’s biggest national celebration.

**The cherry blossoms were almost a week past their expected bloom, but they started to pop out the last couple days of our trip.**

Trip duration: If you’re coming from the United States, I recommend a two-week trip. We had a twelve hour time change to acclimate to, and we wanted to cover a lot of territory.

Couples or kids: Japan is very kid-friendly (as long as your kids are decently well-behaved). We let our oldest son pick any location for his 13 year old birthday, and he chose Japan because of the high tech gadgets, food, and unique culture. However, if your kids tend to be boisterous and high energy, you will definitely feel noticed. We frequently whisper-shouted “Shhh! We’re in Japan!” as a reminder for our youngest to be quiet when he was exhibiting behavior that would have gone completely unnoticed in the United States.

**We had a traditional Kaiseki meal at our ryokan (traditional Japanese B&B) in Takayama. This type of meal requires a very brave palate! Squid for breakfast, anyone?**

Things to Know:

There are no public trash cans: You will be hard pressed to find a trash can on the city streets, so be prepared to carry your garbage with you.

There is a language barrier: People do not readily speak English to help you (despite it being taught in most schools). I think this has more to do with being shy about their language skills than being unwelcoming. You will for sure need to download the Google Translate app. We used it to read menus, signs, our rental car paperwork, etc.

The train schedules can be confusing: We had a great experience on the Shinkansen (“bullet train”) once we were on it, but we didn’t find the train schedules to be intuitive. Head to the Information booth to find an English speaker who can help you. Unless you’re hopping from city to city over the course of a week, the pass is not worth it. Just buy your routes separately. Head to YouTube for videos on how to use the train system, there are many!

There are A LOT of unspoken social rules: If you didn’t already, click on this link to read them: 15 Unspoken Rules When Visiting Japan

The toilets are AMAZING! Seriously! They have prioritized the commode more so than any other country. Whether you’re in the airport, a restaurant, or a gas station, almost every toilet will have a built-in bidet feature. Additionally, some will have a noise cancelling feature, a fan, and numerous bidet options for a delicate or more robust wash. Use them all, or keep it simple!

**Notice the control panel on the wall. And how cool is it that they have a seat to keep your toddler contained!**

Many restaurants only take cash: A surprisingly large amount of restaurants (especially the smaller ones) only take cash. We usually grab some currency from an ATM at the airport, and then hit ATMs every few days for more cash, as needed.

7/11s have ATMs that take International Cards: 7/11 stores are not difficult to find and they have an “International Card” option on their ATMs that allow you to withdraw money from your bank. And they always have an impressive snack collection!

Tattoos are considered taboo: If you have plans to visit a traditional Japanese onsen (natural springs spa), you may see signs preventing entry if you have tattoos.

Some places will require you to take off your shoes before entering: If you see a pile of shoes outside a door, consider that your cue to remove your shoes and neatly line them up off to the side. Some places will even provide slippers for you to wear while inside.

**One surprising etiquette rule in Japan - it's ok (even encouraged) to slurp your noodles!**

Itinerary Suggestion:

Tokyo: 3-5 days

Kyoto: 5-7 days

Osaka: 1-2 days

Transportation:

Shinkansen “bullet train:” This is a great way to get from city to city in Japan. It’s not cheap, but it will save you a lot of time and it’s a smooth, pleasant ride with speeds often exceeding 160 mph. You can buy your ticket ahead of time here. There are racks above the seats for your luggage and bags. You are allowed to purchase food and drink ahead of time to enjoy on board (eating and drinking is discouraged on subways).

Subways: It’s a bit of a hub and spokes layout, which is why it sometimes just makes more sense to take a taxi. The easiest option is probably to just purchase a day pass and then use Google Maps to route to your required destination (click on the public transport icon to see what line to take).

***We use Google Maps constantly in big cities, so I highly recommend you carry a small battery phone charger with you when you’re doing a lot of navigating. If your phone dies, you’re really stuck.

Taxis: We often used taxis in Tokyo because the subway wasn’t a direct route to where we were going. The taxis take credit cards and are incredibly well maintained. **Don’t open the door of a taxi, the driver will open it for you.

Go!: This is the equivalent of Uber or Lift, and is much more widely used. You’ll want to download the Go app for your visit. It’s very user-friendly and there are many more vehicles using Go! than other ride shares.

Car Rental: I would avoid this unless you’re headed off the beaten path. The roads are well maintained, but often the signs are not intuitive (some are just in Japanese characters), and they drive on the left side of the road. The roads are also heavily tolled, which can really add up. **You will need to get an International drivers license to drive in Japan, which your local AAA can help you with.

**This is an ekiben (bento box for the train), and they are available in the station before you board the Shinkansen.**

Accommodations:

Mimaru hotels: This is a great chain for families. We had a double size bed with bunk beds built into the wall and a large seating area. Highly recommend!

Airbnbs: We stayed at this Airbnb in Kyoto. It was a great experience and about a 10 minute walk from the main downtown area.

Ryokan: This is a traditional bed and breakfast, and a must do at least one while you’re in Japan. Ryokans can be costly, but ours had a small onsen (spa), served a kaiseki meal (traditional multi-course meal) and gave us kimonos and slippers to wear while inside.

**Mimaru Hotel in Tokyo - we loved it!**

**Our traditional ryokan experience in Takayama. The floor futons were surprisingly comfortable!**

Tokyo Highlights

Tokyo is HUGE! With a population of almost 14 million people, it’s the largest city in the world. There are a million ways to experience a city, so it really comes down to your personal interests. However, almost every blog post (and I’ve read a lot) will mention these sites for first-timers.

Shibuya Crossing: During its busiest, an estimated 1,000 to 2,500 people will cross this intersection every two minutes. It’s the “Times Square” of Tokyo.

Takeshita Street: This is the epicenter of “Kawaii” culture (Japan’s obsession with all things ‘cute.’) It’s a popular shopping district for teens, with a lot of vintage stores and Instagram worthy treats.

**Rainbow cotton candy on Takeshita Street.**

Ginza Neighborhood - This is where you’ll find high-end shopping malls and gourmet restaurants. It’s also home to Tokyo’s main train station, which makes it a convenient base for exploring Japan.

I strongly recommend you visit the basement food halls of the shopping mall, Mitsukoshi Ginza. There are two food halls (both on basement levels) - one selling produce (like $8 strawberries) and another with beautiful pastries, prepared foods, and impressive bakeries. Visit the first to gawk at the prices, visit the second to indulge in a few treats.

I also recommend popping into Ginza Itoya, a multi-level stationary and pen store with beautiful displays.

Tsukiji Outer Market (fish market): Before 2018, this was the largest wholesale market for seafood in the world (now moved to Toyosu Market), and it’s still a popular tourist site for Japanese and foreign tourists. Check out the stalls selling fresh seafood, wait in line for some of Japan’s famous street foods, or sit down at one of the surrounding restaurants for some of the freshest sushi you’ll ever eat.

teamLab Planets - This digital art museum was a highlight for our kids, and well worth the visit. Unlike some of the new digital art museums, which often offer a few curated instagram photo opps (but leave you feeling robbed), THIS museum offers immersive experiences that I haven’t seen anywhere else. I don’t want to ruin it for you, so you’ll just have to go. **You’ll be taking off your shoes, and you’ll want to wear pants that you can roll up.

**Feeling zen in the "hanging gardens" at teamLab Planets.**

Senso-Ji (and surrounding area): Senso-Ji is Tokyo’s oldest temple, built in 645 AD. It’s iconic, impressive and the surrounding streets are a fun place to shop for souvenirs. You’ll also be near the perfect spot to peruse the unique flavors of Kit Kats that Japan offers at the infamous Don Quijote (Asakusa). The Don Quijote chain sells groceries, toys, clothing and household items. If you walk further west, you’ll come across Kappabashi Dougu street, which is famous for selling kitchen items. Dengama is one of the more charming pottery shops on that street.

**The candy section of Don Quijote. Uniquely flavored Kit Kats and Japanese candy make great gifts for friends back home!**

Meguro River Cherry Blossoms Promenade: If you’re in Tokyo during sakura (end of March/beginning of April) then you definitely need to walk along the Meguro River. They have a street food festival set up with many cherry blossom-themed treats.

**Meguro River - a must during cherry blossom season!**

2nd Street - This is a high-end thrift shop, and if you’re a “sneakerhead” like my 13 year old, then it’s heaven on earth. There’s nothing like the hunt for the perfect Jordans. These are all over Japan and I think we visited two or three in every city. Japan LOVES luxury items (Louis Vuitton bags, Rolex watches, etc.), so there is a large resale market for handbags, accessories, clothing and shoes. They also crack down heavily on fakes, so it’s pretty safe to say that your coveted item is legit.

**2nd Street (high end consignment store, and a great place to get designer clothes, shoes, and handbags).**

Tokyo Eats

Tokyo boats more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world. I recommend searching specifically for your favorite type of cuisine and booking a 1-star (or a 2 or 3 star if you’re up for splurging!) Even the French will say that the only people who do “French” better than the French are the Japanese. Plus, in Tokyo you’re not expected to tip, so if you’re American you just saved 20%!

Kyushu Jangara Ginza - tiny ramen place that will for sure have a queue out the door. We loved their spicy ramen.

Sushi go round Misaki - nothing fancy, but a good place to go for conveyer belt sushi.

Mamma Luisa’s Table - if you need a break from Japanese food, visit this absolutely adorable Italian restaurant. Their friendly terrier will probably great you at the door, and the French waiter was a joy to chat with.

**Conveyor belt sushi! Just order from the table top device and your dishes will come flying down the belt and stop right at your table when they're ready.**

Kyoto Highlights

To go all the way to Japan and NOT go to Kyoto is just…well, you can’t. You have to go. It’s the cultural capital of the country and what most people envision when they think of Japan: traditional architecture, ancient temples, gorgeous gardens, and amazing food. My favorite thing to do in Kyoto is just stroll the streets and mentally log cozy, little restaurants and bars to book for the next couple days.

**The Kamo River that runs through Kyoto**

Getting there:

Kyoto is a 2 hr. 10 min. trip on the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo. Sit on the right side of your train to get a view of Mt. Fuji on your route there. Because this is a long ride, you can eat and drink on this train. Buy your ekiben (train bento box) in the station before boarding. There are bathrooms and an overhead rack for your luggage.

Kyoto Sites

Fushimi Inari Taisha - You’ve probably seen photos of the famed orange gates of this Shinto shrine. I recommend getting there before 7 am if you want to minimize the crowds. Climbing the stairs to the top will take at least 45 minutes, and that’s if you’re moving at a decent pace. It’s worth it!

**The gates of Fushimi Inari cradle the path all the way to the top of the mountain.**

The Gion District: If you’re hoping to spot a geisha, this area is your best shot. The traditional architecture makes for a beautiful stroll and you’ll see a lot of Japanese tourists in traditional clothing looking for the perfect photo op.

We saw so many Japanese tourists donning traditional dress in Kyoto. There are shops where tourists (from anywhere) can rent a kimono and sandals for the day, and then set off to find the most Instagramable backgrounds.

Pontocho Street: A narrow little alleyway that’s beautiful to stroll, lined with cozy restaurants. It’s a popular area so make your reservations early.

Takase River Stroll: Route Google Maps to the ‘Joker’ bar and then just walk north down Kiyamachi-dori along the river. It’s a beautiful walk (or great place to run) and exceptionally beautiful when the cherry blossoms are out.

**This canal runs parallel to Pontocho street and was one of my favorite places to stroll.**

Nishiki Market Shopping District: You’ll definitely have to brave the crowds, but this is a fun place to wander and a feast for the senses.

Sannenzaka Ninenzaka - beautiful, winding streets through traditional architecture and iconic views. If you’re there in peak season, it will be shoulder to shoulder with crowds. Go early, or prepare to have thousands of people in your photos. OR, if you’ve got jet lag, take advantage and go at 3 am for the perfect photo.

Philosopher’s Walk: If it’s cherry blossom season, then this is a must-do; and even if it’s not, it’s a very serene walk. Pop in to the Tea House Assam for a quick bite and some lovely tea drinks.

Maruyama Park: A touristy spot - for Japanese and foreigners alike - but it’s a great place to stroll, grab a bite to eat and people watch (especially during sakura).

**Maruyama Park - when the cherry blossoms have bloomed, this is where to be. There is even a place to share 'hanami' at night (a picnic under the cherry blossoms).**

Arishiyama: If you’re on Instagram, you’ve probably seen the photos of the winding path through a towering bamboo forest. I’ve heard from numerous people that the throngs of crowds start showing up around 5 am, and there’s nothing that sucks the joy out of a tranquil bamboo forest like a line of 50 people waiting for a selfie. If you need to scratch that bamboo forest itch, check out the one in the Kodaiji Temple complex. It’s small, but you may just have a stretch to yourself.

**This is a less visited site near the Kodaiji Temple complex.**

Above, is just a small sampling of what Kyoto has to offer, so definitely check out the numerous blog posts about the city on Pinterest.

Kyoto Eats

Kara-Kusa curry - I went there twice! Authentic Japanese curry with counter seating. It’s tiny, but worth the wait. I dream about the black curry!

Enen- Make reservations early! We had to eat at the sister restaurant (not as cool of location) because they were booked. Informal restaurant featuring table top grills and speciality cuts of meat.

Monk - We’ve heard amazing things about their pizza, but the timing just didn’t work out for us. Expect a line!

Kinkhao - A Thai restaurant, and a nice break from Japanese food. Casual, reasonably priced with a great view of the river.

**Karu-Kusa Curry - a Bib Gourmand restaurant!**

Bars

KRFT BAR- cool space inside a hotel, owned by Australians.

Bar Rocking Chair - Make a reservation for this one. The bar tender was the 2016 World Bar Tender of the Year.

Apotheca - small space, cool vibe, and the bar tender is definitely an artist…or doctor (see below).

**Each cocktail is made with absolute precision at Apotheca.**

And just because….

MiPig Cafe - because where else can you snuggle with pigs while you sip green tea!

**Make a reservation in advance at MiPig. Your shoes and belongings go into a locker, you get your choice of one drink (tea/soda/water), and then you cuddle pigs!**

Day Trip from Kyoto

Nara

Nara is a short train ride away from Kyoto and definitely worth visiting. Nara Park has been taken over with deer who are revered and protected in the community. You can feed them biscuits (sold in the park) and they may even bow to you in greeting. Route to Kasuga Taisha to walk through some of the most beautiful paths of the park, and visit inside Todai-ji Temple to see one of the largest bronze statues of Buddha in the world.

**Our oldest sharing a reverent moment with the deer.**

**Todai-ji Temple - look how tiny the people are by comparison!**

Osaka Highlights

Known as “The Kitchen of Japan,” Osaka definitely has a world of food to choose from. Try to get a hotel near the Dotonbori district of the city. Stroll the streets at night when the bright lights and unique signs create almost a carnival feel.

If I could re-do this portion of the trip, I think I would book a guided walking food tour to find some of the out-of-the-way restaurants and learn more about the dishes themselves. We did take a cooking class through Air Kitchen with a lovely Japanese woman named Keiko. She taught us how to make dumplings, ceremonial matcha (the short version), mochi, and two different kind of ramen in her home kitchen.

**Keiko teaching Boden how to make the miso broth for the ramen. She ferments her miso paste for months!**

Osaka Sites

Dotonbori District - this is the epicenter of the nightlife there - restaurants, clubs, bars, shopping, arcades - you name it!

Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street - the promenade is covered, so this is a great activity for a rainy day.

***Bring your passport with you when you check out and you don’t have to pay sales tax.

**Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street in Osaka - it's over 1.5 miles long!**

Nishinomaru Garden & Osaka Castle - a beautiful place to roam around. We didn’t go into the castle, but you can for a fee and a decently long wait in a line.

Osaka Eats

We were here briefly, and one of our meals was at the cooking class, so I’ve only got one place that I would definitely hit up again if I return. And it’s not Japanese…

Falafel Sababa - We ordered a chicken shawarma on pita, ate it, and then ordered another one. Soooo good!

If you do rent a car…

Takayama

There’s one portion of our trip that I wasn’t planning to include in this post, and that’s Takiyama and Shirakawa-go (a UNESCO world heritage site). Not because they’re not worth visiting, but because it will require you to rent a car or take a bus (we rented a car to avoid sharing the experience with 40 tourists). It complicates a trip, so I just based my recommended itinerary on places that you can get to easily on the Shinkansen (bullet train). But here’s a sneak peek of those locations!

**This photo was taken on our drive back from some of the traditional Ghasso-style houses. We stopped at a small onsen we passed, Taira Fureai Onsen, and I think we were the only tourists there!**

**If you drive a little further North Takayama, you can visit the World Heritage Suganuma Gassho-zukuri Village. It's less touristy than Shirakawa-go.**

Final thoughts…

My 13 yr old son, who picked Japan for his special trip, appreciated the architecture and thoughtful design of everything from buildings to products to pastries. He left with a belly full of ramen (literally, it was his last request at the airport) and some rare second-hand Jordans. And we all walked away with a lot to ponder.

I could list numerous reasons that travel is rewarding, but one of the principle reasons that we prioritize travel for our children (and ourselves) is that is illustrates first hand that there are many ways to live a life. It challenges your own social norms, helps you solidify what values you hold dear, and allows you to see how other societal values play out within a culture.

Stepping into a world that prizes harmony, mutual respect and conflict avoidance from a very individualistic society (the United States) that values self-expression and directness, was a bit of a jolt. And my kids noticed it right away.

Every traveler will have their own opinion of what aspects of a culture they prefer, but I think we ALL can agree that the Japanese restrooms are far superior to any public restroom you’ll find in the United States. I can’t even imagine what they think of some of our gas station toilets! Although, I think most Japanese would be too polite to ever say.