Olympic National Park

When: We went in mid-July. Anytime during the summer should be great. If Hurricane Ridge is high on your list (and it should be) then you want to go sometime between late June and October. Early June there will still be many feet of snow at that elevation, and therefore some trail closures.

Duration: At least 10 days if you’re adding on Orcas Island or Mount Rainier, otherwise you could do it in a week. But it’s AMAZING, so go for as long as you can!

Who do I bring?: The family!! It’s a great destination for a big ol’ summer family fun trip! Honestly, go with anyone - friends, spouse, or anyone who likes to hike!

Vibe

Olympic National Park has got to be one of THE most diverse National Parks in the United States. If you’re driving from Seattle, you’ll first come to the Hurricane Ridge area, with epic hikes through wildflowers with snow-capped mountain views. Black-tailed deer and marmots are plentiful and have no fear of humans.

Continuing west, you’ll reach the old growth forests of Sol Duc, with some of the most magical, fairy-tale vibes you’ll ever experience. Sword ferns line the paths and wooden bridges weave over streams and rivers. Keep an eye out for unicorns or big foot, because if they exist, they’re in this forest.

When you’ve gone as far as the Pacific, you’ll find a string of gorgeous beaches dotting the coast. While similar, each one has its own speciality: sea stacks, tide pools, and/or piles of driftwood (the ginormous cedar tree kind). Heading south you reach the Hoh Rainforest, a temperate rainforest with hundreds of species of moss and giant banana slugs. If you want your kids to love hiking, Olympic National Park is a great place to get them hooked.

**Marymere Falls Hike in the Hoh Rainforest**

***This National Park is gaining in popularity and accommodations don’t always meet demand. Plan this trip early - especially if you want to stay at any of Olympic’s Lodges! It’s not too early to start planning those a year out!

**View from the Crescent Lake Lodge in Olympic National Park**

The Route

I’m just going to lay out our itinerary here with separate, more in-depth blog post links to Seattle and Orcas Islands. If you’re tight on time (or want to reduce the cost of the trip), I’d omit Orcas Island from the itinerary. Scroll to the bottom for a day by day abbreviated itinerary to start your planning!

Seattle

I would give this city a full two days to hit the highlights. I’ve included some pics below to whet your appetite, but click here for the full blog post.

Orcas Island

I consider this an optional add-on to the Olympic National Park vacation. It has a laid-back vibe and is great if you want to work in a couple days to just chill and bum around a less-touristy, outdoorsy-focused Pacific Northwest region. Check out the full Orcas Island blog post here.

**Another great add-on would be Mount Rainier National Park, which is south of the Seattle airport, and totally do-able with this trip. Check off two National Parks in one trip!

On the way to Hurricane Ridge in the National Park… consider these stops:

Port Townsend - a little out of the way if you’re coming straight from Seattle, but this quaint harbor town has a lot of charm, great restaurants, a wooden boat festival every Fall, and also a Marine Science Center that I think my kids would have loved (closed due to Covid when we were visiting). If you’re there in mid-September, check out the wooden boat festival!

Sequim - I had no idea that this area is full of lavender fields! Visit between mid-June and mid-July to see gorgeous fields of purple. You can follow the “lavender trail” here, or attend the Lavender festival that takes place every year in late July.

Olympic Game Farm - I have mixed feelings about this…I went to one of these places as a kid and it still is a vivid memory for me because I was just in awe of seeing these huge animals up close - like REALLY close! The herbivores seems to have decent space to move around (at least bigger than a zoo), but on our way out I saw some Apex predators in small cages and felt very disheartened. If you go, and feel the way I do, then perhaps the best thing to do is leave a review on the site asking them not to keep lions and tigers. My boys were in totally awe of the alpaca, bison, and deer and I definitely think they will never forget this experience.

Olympic National Park

Hurricane Ridge Area

Get ready to experience three totally unique ecosystems! If you’re driving from Seattle, you’ll first visit the mountainous region of the park. Port Angeles is 2 hrs. and 30 minutes from Seattle, via the Seattle/Bainbridge Ferry. We were coming from Orcas Island, so we took a different route. You can drive south around Pudget Sound, but the ferry is unique to this area and saves you mileage. You can make a reservation here.

Accommodations:

The most popular jumping off point for this part of the park is the town of Port Angeles. It’s still a 35 minute drive to Hurricane Ridge, but there aren’t any other towns between the two points (you’re just climbing elevation inside the park). Port Angeles is a large city with many restaurants, hotels, outfitters, and an amazing co-op. We were quite pleased with the Olympic Lodge, which also has a nice outdoor pool.

Food in Port Angeles

Next Door Gastropub - great food, good-sized portions. This place fills up fast!

Chestnut Cottage Restaurant - Ma & Pa feel with good breakfast options

Country Aire Natural Foods - this is an amazing co-op!!! There is a fresh juice bar, prepared foods counter and a HUGE selection of healthy foods to meet the needs of a DF, GF, Paleo, Keto or Vegan diet. Stock up on hiking snacks!

**Fresh squeezed juice from the Co-op in Port Angeles!**

Hiking from Hurricane Ridge

We passed the first ranger station, Heart O’ The Hills, and headed straight to the visitor center at the highest elevation, Hurricane Ridge. At 5,000 ft of elevation, you’ll be high enough for snow-capped peaks, alpine flowers, chubby marmots and friendly black-tailed deer. Dress in layers because the weather can be chilly at the elevation; especially in the morning!

Things to Know:

If it’s supposed to be cloudy all day, you probably aren’t going to get the grand views you’re looking for. Check the weather and plan to be there for the most opportune time.
The higher you go in elevation, the colder it gets. In the morning you will probably want a jacket and maybe even a hat. Have someone carry an empty backpack so that you have a place to stuff the layers you shed when the day warms up, or you start working a sweat from climbing in elevation.

**Feeling strong after our trek to the top!**

There are a few, very short easy hikes from the parking lot that are fun to do with kids and stroller friendly!

Meadow Loop - easy, paved, 0.25 mile one way with meadow views and the mountains in the background.

Cirque Trail - Easy, 0.5 mile paved trail with views of Port Angeles and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

And a longer, paved trail that starts from a lot that is past the Visitor Center…

Hurricane Hill: 1.6 miles one way, definitely climbs in elevation, amazing views the whole way! (Unless it’s cloudy). When you’re almost at the top you’ll see a dirt path off to the right and that’s fun to hike for a little to feel like you’re “off-roading” (even though you’re not). It’s also wear we saw marmot!

**That side dirt path trail (from Hurricane Hill) I mentioned above. Notice the fog on one side and blue skies on the other!**

Hurricane Hill had incredible views, but my kids didn’t feel like they were “truly hiking” because the route was entirely paved, so when we passed back by the area at the end of our trip, we returned and did part of the Kahhlane Ridge Trail.

Kahhlane Ridge Trail - departs from the opposite side of the parking lot (closer to where you first enter) and is a dirt path with majestic views. The trail goes 3.8 miles one way, but we just did about a mile and then walked it back (we were short on time).

Hoh Rain Forest

Continue west on route 101 for an hour and you will reach the Hoh Rain Forest. You will also drive past Crescent Lake and the beautiful Olympic Park Crescent Lake Lodge. We hiked all day in the Hoh Rainforest and then continued our drive on to the town of Forks that evening, but staying at the lodge and playing on the lake could be an experience in itself. Another option is the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, but I can’t speak to it personally, or the nearby campground.

**There are many campgrounds all around Olympic National Park - what an idyllic setting!**

**National Park Lodges aren’t resort-y (although their prices would make you think so). Many of them are very old, and have that rustic, wood-beams/woven rugs/large fireplaces appeal. Don’t expect ‘cushy’ accommodations (some of the old rooms don’t even have their own bathrooms), but do expect history, great views of nature, and a comfy leather chair to kick back in near a stone fireplace.

**Crescent Lake Lodge in Olympic National Park**

**Enclosed porch at Crescent Lake Lodge**

Hiking in Hoh Rainforest

Marymere Falls Trail - this is one of the first trails you’ll come to and it’s right near Lake Crescent. It’s heavily trafficked and understandably so - you don’t want to miss it!! Huge ferns, lots of moss and wooden bridges dot this 1.7 miles (out and back) hike. It’s one of my favorites!

Sol Duc Trailhead - Further into the Hoh Rainforest you will come to this trail. It leads to the bridge crossing that you will see in photographs all over the area. I didn’t realize that, though, until I was already at the bridge and the angle you see everyone is taken from much further away (not sure where the magic spot was, but keep an eye out). It’s a beautiful 0.8 out and back heavily-trafficked hike with many roots on the path - you definitely need to be sure footed. It’s absolutely beautiful and if you want to continue on (and enjoy some quiet) continue on to the Lover’s Lane Trail.

Lover’s Lane Trail - Take the Sol Duc Falls trail to the Lover’s Lane trail (which connects with the Campground Trail) to make a 6.0 mile loop. I would say that for about 3 miles of the trail we didn’t see another soul. It’s narrow root-filled paths through huge expanses of moss-covered trees and sword ferns and I absolutely loved it. You’ll also come within view of the hot springs resort and stroll through part of the campground.

**Snack break on the Lover’s Lane Trail**

The Tide Pools and Hoh Rainforest

The Rainforest is huge and you can’t drive through it, so you’ll find yourself going back out to Route 101 and over to the town of Forks, near the coast. You have two options here: 1. You can stay in Forks and visit the beaches to the west and drive south to the rainforest trails or 2. You can stay south in Kalalaoch Lodge or Quinnalt Lodge and drive north to some of the beaches. Let’s cover lodging first…

Forks - If you are an entrepreneur, there is HUGE opportunity here. The town is known for its connection to the Twilight Series (set in this town, but you won’t see much of the actual town in the movies) and it does try to capitalize on that connection; however, there are very few motels (no hotels) and good restaurant options are limited. This would be THE perfect place to have a seasonal Food Truck lot, just sayin.

Accommodations in/near Forks:

Pacific Inn Motel - this is where we stayed. It’s clean, in the center of town, and has a cute outdoor area in the back that’s a great place to sit with take out.

If you go the Southern Route…

Kalaloch Lodge - right on the water, great views and what looks to be a good restaurant right next door (we didn’t stay here)

Quinault Lodge - in the National park, old historic lodge right on Lake Quinault and a departure point for many hikes in the area.

**Quinault Lodge in Olympic National Park**

Dining in the area near Forks:

Pacific Pizza - decent food, big menu, and a line out the door. Order ahead of time on your way back from hiking and pick it up to go!

River’s Edge (La Push) - as the crow flies, this place is about 300 yards from Rialto beach. As the car drives, it’s about 20 minutes from the beach (and about 20 minutes from Forks). My salmon hash was amazing and the views are pretty great, too.

NW Coffee Bros - a small coffee truck with friendly service and a pretty extensive menu of coffee drinks, teas, and even a few baked goods. It’s in town parked at the Shell gas station.

***There is a decent-sized grocery store where you can stock up on some hiking snacks and even grab dinner (we heated up some frozen meals in our motel microwave) in a pinch.

“Do it for the Kids” stop: John’s Beachcombing Museum in Forks is an old pole barn that is filled floor to ceiling with items that have been washed up on nearby beaches. John has quite the collection and he even created a scavenger hunt for the kids - it feels like you’re inside one of those ‘Seek and Find’ books! Check out his binder of messages found in bottles and the huge whale skull!

**Completing the scavenger hunt at John’s Beachcombing Museum**

Dining in the area further south:

Creekside Restaurant - menu looked good, but the wait was long (take out only during Covid). It’s right near the ocean.

Quinault Lodge - small menu, but decent food. My boys loved their clam chowder!

Detour - If you’re staying further south, I’ve heard that the town of Seabrook is very charming and surprisingly not as expensive as you’d think!

Exploring Tide Pools

**** It is critical that you know the tide schedule before you go to the beach. The ocean height can vary up to 8 feet (or more) with tides, and your absolute best chances of seeing sea anemones and starfish are at the very lowest tide. We woke up at 5 am for the most optimal conditions, but it varies every single day, so you may luck out with a 10 am low tide (there are two low tides every 24 hours, go with the lowest of the low). Just Google “Rialto Beach tide schedule” (or whatever the beach name is) and a chart will come up.

Rialto Beach - this beach is about 20 minutes from Forks and a great spot to search for tide pool creatures. Once on the beach, walk to the right and you’ll see many starfish and anemone clinging to the numerous rocks that dot the coast. For the deepest tide pools that are the most abundant with sea life, walk all the way down the beach to the rock feature known as “Hole-in-the-Wall” (you’ll see why).

Parenting Tip: download the ‘SEEK’ app on your phone to help you identify what you find! It is seriously the coolest app, and can be used to identify plants and animals.

**You definitely want shoes or sandals like Keens because the rocks can be sharp and slippery!**

Ruby Beach - this beach is further south (closer to Kalaloch Lodge) and its iconic sea stacks (large rocks) appear in countless photographs advertising the coast of Washington. We did not find as many sea creatures here, but we didn’t visit at the lowest tide point and that can make a big difference, so there may be more there under the surface! Either way, it’s a gorgeous beach with huge piles of driftwood and logs to climb on and explore. Right at the main entrance to the beach is a river that flows into the sea, and we’ve found that that’s a magical combo for our boys.

**Ruby Beach (notice the shallow river to the right). It’s all rocks, so wear sandals or shoes!**

Second Beach - this is a very popular beach for camping. The beach is only accessible by trail and it’s a 0.7 mile hike in. I did it years ago (pre-kids), but we didn’t make it there on this last trip.

***Almost all of the beaches are rocky, the water is freezing (52 degrees) and the driftwood is plentiful. Just prepare your kids that this isn’t a ‘white sand and beach blankets’ kind of beach. Make sure you have shoes or close-toed sandals (like Keens), and know that, unless you have a wet suit, the water temps aren’t really swimmable. You’re there to explore and soak up the natural beauty of the rugged coastline.

**Aren’t these striations on Rialto Beach crazy?! I’m guessing glacial activity…**

Hiking the Pacific Side of Hoh Rainforest

Yes, this is part of the same rainforest that you hiked when you did Marymere falls further north, but if you’re loving these hikes, the Pacific side has some gems as well.

Hall of the Mosses - 0.8 mile loop and one of THE most famous hikes in the park. So famous, in fact, that much has changed to protect it since I was here 20 years ago. There are many signs warning you to stay on the path, closing off side areas where kids would climb on tree roots. It’s a quick, scenic loop that leaves right from the visitor center and is on fairly flat ground.

Spruce Nature Trail - This is a 1.2 mile loop that starts right near the Hall of Mosses Trail, but is way less crowded and just as scenic. In fact, it’s one of my favorite hikes in Olympic. I highly recommend going in the late afternoon when the sunlight is glowy and soft.

**That soft, glowy light I love (around 5 pm) on the Spruce Nature Trail.**

If you took in Hurricane Ridge, Hoh Rainforest and the tide pools along the coast, you’re probably nearing the end of your trip. There is a longer, southern route back to Seattle if you wanted a change of scenery, but my research didn’t turn up any ‘must-see’ destinations along the way so we opted to return the way we came. The boys were eager to do more hiking in the mountains, so we headed back up to Hurricane Ridge for a hike, and then spent the night in Bremerton before catching a red-eye out of the city the next day.

Final Thoughts…

I’ve found that children aren’t as impressed with amazing vistas and majestic mountain views - they want to TOUCH stuff and CLIMB on logs and THROW rocks into rivers! And that is what makes Olympic National Park one of the best NPs to do while they're young. Getting up close and personal with starfish and sea anemones, watching wild deer feed and marmots scurry across mountain ridges, and hunting for banana slugs & hiding in huge sword fern patches…that’s a perfect day for the young, and young at heart!

**Taken (and edited) by my 10 year-old.**

Our Itinerary

Day 1: Fly to Seattle, arrive early morning (time change is to our advantage coming from the east) and explore.

Day 2: Explore Seattle

Day 3: Drive to the ferry in Anacortes and head to Orcas Island (or head straight to the Port Angeles area to start your Olympic National Park journey).

Day 4: Explore Orcas Island

Day 5: Take the ferry back to Anacortes, drive to Deception Pass State Park and explore, get on the ferry in Coupeville and head to Port Townsend. Explore P.T. and then continue on to Port Angeles for the night.

Day 6: Hike in Hurricane Ridge (possible afternoon at Olympic Game Park or Sequim lavender farms)

Day 7: Drive to Crescent Lake, hike Marymere Falls, continue on to Sol Duc Falls Trail and then pull into the town of Forks in the evening.

Day 8: Explore Rialto beaches’ tide pools

Day 9: Drive south to the other entrance to the Hoh Rain Forest to hike and visit Ruby Beach

Day 10: Drive to Bremerton (across the sound from Seattle)

Day 11: Explore Bremerton or Seattle for the day and catch the ‘red-eye’ flight back home

‘Travel’ the World with your Taste Buds!

Orcas Island, Washington