Orcas Island, Washington
Fun fact: The island is not named after the whales in the region, but actually an abbreviated form of a Spanish explorer’s name.
Location: Orcas Island is part of the San Juan Islands, which are accessed by a ferry in Anacortes, Washington (about 1.5 hours north of Seattle). The other major islands in the chain are Lopez Island, Shaw Island and San Juan Island (which is known for its quaint port town, Friday Harbor).
When to go: Their peak season is July & August, but it’s also the priciest time to visit. If you don’t mind cooler temps, try spring or fall (through October). The water is chilly year-round and it’s not a beach island, so the warmer weather is not critical (unless you just dislike being cold in general).
Trip duration: It’s a great two or three night addition to a Seattle trip!
Couples or Kids?: We had our kids with us, and they had a decent time, but I do think this would make a great escape with friends or other couples. There isn’t much specifically geared towards children, but there are wineries, spas and that pesky Washington rule about not being able to take your kids into certain dining establishments (based on how much liquor they serve).
***If this is an add-on to a Seattle trip, check out my blog post about Seattle here***
View of Mount Baker
Things to know:
-Unless this is an experienced road biking trip, you will definitely want a car.
-If you’re going during July or August, book your accommodations at least 5-6 months, or more, in advance. We were trying to choose between Orcas Island and San Juan Island, but the decision was made for us when we discovered San Juan Island was almost completely booked and the remaining rooms (at about $500 a night) were not refundable if canceled.
-You can book your ferry transportation two months out from your departure date. The opportunity to book much closer to departure exists, but often the more desirable time slots are already gone (more info about this below).
View from the ferry on the trip over.
Vibe:
Thanks to the rain shadow effect of the Olympic Mountains, the San Juan Islands get about 247 sunny days every year - double that of Seattle! Old growth forests, charming little harbors, the quaint town of Eastsound for shopping and dining, mountain hikes, whale watching and kayaking make this a great destination for outdoor lovers. The island has about 6,000 permanent residents and feels a bit wild and unkempt -not resorty - which gives it a rugged appeal.
The perfect experience would be to know a local...who also has a boat, the ‘in’ on the best fresh seafood, and directions to the most scenic hikes and off-the-beaten path coastal areas. Sadly, we don’t know that person! We definitely found some gems, which I will of course share, but I feel like there’s much more to uncover on this island!
Getting There
Most people take the ferry from Anacortes, which is an hour-long ride through some gorgeous scenery. Tickets can be purchased in three waves: 2 months before departure, 2 weeks before, and 2 days before through this site. You can also show up for standby in a pinch.
It’s $16 to reserve a spot (it’s refunded unless you’re a “no show”) and for 4 passengers and our car, it was about $80 round trip).
If you’d like to add some adventure to your trip (or just get there faster), there are a number of seaplane options listed here.
On the deck of the ferry en route to Orcas Island.
Accommodations
***I think the key to finding great accommodations here is to book 6-8 months in advance. We booked about three months out and options were significantly limited.
We stayed at the Rosario Resort, which was built by a Seattle ship builder from 1906-1909. It does have a dated feel, but also beautiful views of the harbor and is in a good proximity to the city of Eastsound, as well as popular hiking locations.
The main resort building no longer hosts guests, so you’re actually a short drive (within view) of the resort. I was a little nervous/disappointed when I first saw the motel-ish, out-dated look of the building ($219 a night), but the view from the room makes up for it and it was clean, which is top priority!
View from our room at the Rosario Resort
Beautiful pool at the Rosario Resort, but sadly it was “adults only.”
Activities
This island is all about exploring the great outdoors!
Whale Watching - there are many tour companies, but we went with Outer Island Excursions for their great reviews and success record with finding Orcas. And we found Orcas! Boats are mandated to stay 200 yards away from the whales, and Straitwatch (aka “the whale police”) are often present to enforce this. If the whales approach your boat then they stop the engine and stay put, but otherwise you are viewing from a distance. The naturalist on board was a wealth of information and you could tell she absolutely loved her job - and the Orcas!
This orca is part of the ‘J’ pod that calls this region home.
The naturalist shared all kinds of interesting facts about Orcas as we headed back to port.
Hiking
-Mount Moran State Park-
Cascade Falls is a short (0.5) hike to a beautiful waterfall. This is a great one to do with kids!
Mount Constitution is one of the most popular hiking destinations on the island, and is the highest point on the island. If you’ve got little ones with you, or are just tuckered out, you can drive to the top for an amazing view of the bay and surrounding islands.
View from the top of Mount Constitution - can you imagine the sunsets up here?!
Cascade Loop Hike is 2.7 miles around a beautiful lake with the option to rent canoes or kayaks after.
-Obstruction Pass State Park-
You can take the .6 mile Central Trail that heads directly to the beach. Check the tide schedule and if you’re at low tide, you may be able to see starfish and little crabs on the rocks (left side of the beach). For a longer hike, combine the Central Hike with the Highlands trail to do a 1.5 mile loop. All trails, including a shorter bluff trail, leave from the same parking lot.
Boden spots his first sea star (formerly known as ‘starfish’).
All kind of interesting flora & fauna - barnacles, kelp, and sea anemones!
-Turtleback Mountain Preserve-
Turtlehead Summit is a 5.7 mile hike from the North Trailhead. Download the All Trails app for specific information regarding the hike.
Ship Peak Loop is 3 miles and offers some of the same big views as the summit hike, without the extra distance.
Kayak and Canoe Rental
Orcas Adventures has rentals right on Crystal Lake in Moran State Park.
Outer Island Excursions (who we used for whale watching) also does kayak tours.
Shearwater Adventures offers kayaking tours at various points around the island, including a picnic and kayaking tour.
Shopping
Eastsound is the largest town and there are many restaurants and shops that line the Main Street. I could list some here, but honestly it’s not that big of an area - so just visit them all! You’ll find clothing stores, art, housewares, and more. I do think that Darvill’s Bookstore deserves a special mention. It has a wonderfully curated children’s section, books on outdoor adventuring, and everything else from old classics to current bestsellers. Plus, the staff were incredibly helpful!
Dining on Orcas Island
***Plan ahead and call for reservations for most places!
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm - my favorite combo = great, fresh food in a super casual environment. The prices are fancy, the decor is picnic tables overlooking the bay where you can actually see the oyster farm from your table. We tried the oysters, fish and chips, halibut sliders, and strawberry rhubarb pie. All amazing. It would be a shame to miss this place!
Fresh oysters from the farm, along with a raspberry shallot vinaigrette
Dining a few yards from where the oysters are farmed
Brown Bear Baking Company - this bakery is pretty popular, so it’s most likely going to have a line out the door. The wait for sandwiches was 30 minutes, so we just grabbed a pre-made croissant/brie/ham from the bakery section that my son really enjoyed.
So many choices at Brown Bear!
Rose’s Bakery Cafe - this came highly recommended to us, but was sadly closed on Sunday & Monday (the two days we were there).
Orcas Food Co-op - a great option for anyone who has food restrictions, or just wants to grab some healthful food for a hike or lunch.
Matthew’s Smokehouse & Deli - we discovered this place when all the options in Eastsound were already booked. It’s on the west side of the island, with not much close by, so it’s out-of-the-way location worked to our advantage. Barbecue and sides are served in a casual environment with plenty of outdoor seating, and corn hold boards to keep you entertained while you wait for your food.
Great bbq in a casual setting
I can’t emphasize it enough, book your accommodations early! If the San Juan Islands were ever a secret, the secret is definitely out. The trifecta would be a cabin rental with water views, lunch at Buck Bay Shellfish Farm and a late afternoon whale watching tour. It’s the perfect place to get away from the energy of Seattle, breathe the fresh air and listen to the waves lap along the side of a boat.
